Since my campaign got started up a week ago, I’ve been running through a series of homebrew solutions for gaming. Dungeons and Dragons might not be Warhammer 40k, but there is some preparation involved in making a game run smoothly by finding ways to represent characters and players in an efficient, and importantly for me, cheap, manner. I think I’ve finally found an adequate solution to how I will be representing the features of the terrain, players, and the monsters from now on.
The first game we played at someone’s house. They had a grid on a white board, which was really nice, but it was the wrong scale. The game maps had to be adjusted to work on the board, or you’d have to go room by room and redraw everything twice as large. It was a little difficult to transport this board anywhere too, so we would only be able to play at their place. It wasn’t portable, and while it was adaptable, I wanted to see if I could do better without spending too much.
The first thing I tried to do was make my own tiles. Dungeons and Dragons have official tiles that are sold based on themes and come in a book. You punch out these tiles and use them. You need multiple books, and multiple copies of books if you want to make large dungeons. I found free, legal sources of tiles online, then went about trying to find materials to make them. I had a friend do this with some foam boards and expensive color printing. He made some awesome sets, totally in scale and beautifully made, but they are of limited use. He had one theme, dank blue dungeon. If you didn’t want to run something in a dank, blue dungeon, you were going to need to make new tiles.
I tried to make some of my own dungeon tiles. I decided to use some hard board, like tough cardboard, and some things I printed out on a copier. The ink started to smear, cutting out things to make them fit together was difficult, and trying to coat them so they wouldn’t get damaged proved problematic. My first attempted at covering tiles was done with scotch tape and some clear packing tape. This became a bubbling mess. Once placed, it couldn’t be repaired either. That idea went nowhere. I scrapped the idea after only using half of one sheet of hardboard. I’ll keep the hardboard around when I need to make 3-d map elements or something, but as a replacement for store bought or foam tiles it was useless.
Next I tried paper maps that would be laminated. They would be portable, and easy to store. They could also, theoretically, be made in advance for every encounter to make each fight unique. I don’t have a lamination machine, so I bought some giant sheets of plastic coating that claimed you could protect pictures without the need of a lamination machine. This was no joke. It was “A3″ sized paper meant to protect a giant photo. This is for protecting things the size of two sheets of normal copier paper side by side. I bought some A3 sized paper, went in to use the copier at work, and printed out something to see how well these lamination sheets would work. Once I got it printed successfully at the right scale, I tried to do a double sided sheet stuck between the lamination paper.
You know how when you buy a screen protector for your phone, it comes with a sticky sheet and a stiff sheet that is somewhat tacky? You know how hard it is to apply that to a small screen without bubbles or messing it up? Now imagine that process made fifty times harder because of the surface area that has been increased by around twenty times. I learned that If you don’t cut the paper down to smaller dimensions, the A3 paper was too big and didn’t let the static part stick to the sticky part. I’m still not sure if I am supposed to remove the two static parts and only use the sticky parts or what. There weren’t any real instructions or anything I could figure out. After failing once at this a few times, I got a reasonably good sheet to stick together, but it wasn’t ideal. There were bubbles, and the designed couldn’t be swapped out. Once you made a map, you’d have to use it the way it was because writing on the laminated sheet with a dry erase marker didn’t work well.
Defeated, I gave up. I was just going to use my giant A3 paper I had for each battle and just toss it after each game. If I needed to draw on it I’d just not reuse it later on and print out some more. I would just keep my eye open for a way to make a reusable battle map in the future and leave it alone. I had too many attempts and too many failures clouding up my vision of what I needed to do.
Back when I first got into D&D, I found these little hard plastic cases for individual pieces of paper. You’d slip the paper between the plastic, then you could use a dry erase marker on them without needing to erase it with a rag or eraser. It was great for tracking initiative or hit points on a character sheet. I have two for small B5 sized paper. Stationary stores sell them for students, and they come in various sizes. I thought about looking at a stationary store to see if I could come up with something to replace my previous attempts today, and I struck gold. I went to the store where I purchased my original cases and was in luck! There were A3 sized hard paper cases! I had A3 paper! I could simply print off a map and slip it between cases, or buy multiple cases and put them together for a large battle map. I bought two, which makes approximately a 60 cm x 84 cm battle map. (Yes, I went metric long ago.) Since it is modular, I could continue to add different sized sheets too, but right now it is as big as the whiteboard we started with and a lot more flexible. I think I reached my goal.
All I needed was for the image on the paper to have a grid marking twenty five millimeter squares and I could even use Dungeons and Dragon miniatures to represent characters in battle. Since I can draw on these paper cases with dry erase markers, I just used some graph paper I made from the Internet for a generic battle map. Now all I need to do is find a nice set of thin and fat color dry erase markers and I’ll be set. Erasable, portable, adaptable, and cheap. It’s perfect for my needs.
Since I won’t be buying miniatures, my next goal is to find cheap ways to represent players. I’ve been using Tokentool, which lets you create small tokens that are easy to print out at the right scale. Then I drop them onto a sheet and print out a bunch of them. Since I like a variety of monsters, I don’t even bother doing anything but printing and cutting them out. I could be using the hardboard to make chips or tokens, but I haven’t had them fight off the same creature twice yet. I also have small metal clips that can hold the pictures of the creatures, but this hasn’t worked out since it isn’t viewable at all angles. Right now simple paper printouts represent the monsters in the campaign.
The players started using dice to represent their characters last game, which was fine. Once conditions started stacking up, I wish we had some actual miniatures to denote who was who, because it got a little busy on the board with the abstractions. I have small glass pebbles for marking creatures, but bloodied conditions, or vulnerabilities needed to be noted by hand. If I can find a hobby store with different colored stones or pipe cleaners with the right colors, I might be able to make the current marking system work. If I get a colorful set of markers I’ll be able to note it on the board as a temporary fix. I’m pretty happy with my homebrew solutions now. There are some things I could print off from the Internet and incorporate, and I’ve already decided to work on a homebrew “achievement” system for players that feel they’ve accomplished something without needing lots of magic items.
This is all after I was a Dungeon Master for two games. TWO. We are still trying to nail down specifics about the frequency we want to play and where to meet, and I’ve already gone batshit crazy trying to find out how to represent the perfect game table on a budget. This is why I don’t do well on vacation. Without something to focus my attentions, like work, I’ll just get more and more focused on the minutiae of my hobbies and slowly go crazy.